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Friday, November 6, 2009

When to Blanket Your Horse in Winter

From Horse And Rider
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Knowing when to blanket your horse can help keep him comfortable through inclimate weather.
Photo by Darrell Dodds

Some horses are happy in all but the most bitter temperatures, while others shiver on the first cold night of fall. To figure out if your horse needs a blanket, answer the following yes-or-no questions. A "yes" answer to any one means your horse would appreciate a little extra insulation.

1. Is it below 50 degrees Fahrenheit? Even if your horse has a natural (unclipped) haircoat, he may appreciate a blanket at this temperature. This is just a general rule of thumb, since other factors (such as wind, humidity and/or precipitation) may call for a blanket when it's warmer. On the other hand, some horses acclimate to colder temperatures, especially those with thick haircoats.

2. Is his coat clipped? If so, your horse may need a blanket (or at least a sheet) when the mercury drops below 60 degrees F.

3. Does he usually live indoors? If your horse lives even part of the time in a warm barn, he'll feel the cold more than a horse that lives outside full time.

4. Does he live in an open pasture? A full-time outdoor horse will grow a heavy coat to ward off the elements, but wind and rain can destroy that insulating effect. If there's no shelter in his pasture, he may need wind- and water-resistant horse clothing to stay warm.

5. Is his stall drafty? Drafts in your barn may have the same effect as outside breezes--they blow away that layer of warm air next to your horse's skin, making him feel colder.

6. Is he shivering? Don't go by formulas--check your horse to see whether he's too cold. If he's shivering, blanket him (or add blankets) and get him to a shelter. (To see if your horse is too warm, slide your hand under his blanket; if he's sweaty, he needs a lighter covering, or none at all.)

Dr. Hower-Moritz is an associate professor of equine science at University of Minnesota, Crookston.
This article originally appeared in the October 2000 issue of Horse & Rider magazine.
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Good Reasons for Bad Behavior

From Equus
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Linda Tellington-Jones

More than a quarter century ago, I began looking more deeply into the reasons why horses behave the way they do. Using biological and neurological principles, I developed solutions that any person could safely and successfully use. The system, called the Tellington Method, is based on my discovery that working on a horse's body releases fear, tension, discomfort and pain in a way that changes his behavior, influences his personality and enhances his overall health and well-being.

The Tellington Method has three components. The Tellington TTouch (known as TTouch and pronounced tee-touch) is a form of bodywork comprised of a variety of circles, lifts and slides done with the hands and fingertips. Coupled with carefully orchestrated ground exercises and ridden work, the Tellington Method dramatically expands a horse's capacity for learning and cooperation, improves horse and rider balance and coordination, and deepens the bond between the horse and his owner.

The Tellington Method embodies a compassionate approach to training and begins with the recognition that when a horse is:
  • uncooperative, there is always a reason, whether it is physical, mental or emotional
  • overstressed, he cannot learn
  • fearful, he cannot listen
  • uncomfortable or in pain, he cannot respond to your requests
  • insufficiently exercised, undernourished or overfed, he cannot cooperate.
Communication and Understanding
Successful trainers intuitively know that a horse must want to work for you in order to perform his best. But only when that desire is carefully cultivated will he go about his work in more than a mechanistic, obedient fashion. Taking the time to learn your horse's language--the way he communicates with you and with others--can bring a new level of trust to your relationship and enhance mutual progress.

When you are able to interpret your horse's messages, you are likely to discover that a great many behaviors and attitudes are simply his way of telling you that he is not comfortable. For example, a reflexive kick while he's being groomed in cross ties may indicate that he's ticklish or sore and that the style of grooming is too vigorous or harsh. At other times, the behavior can stem from a lack of training. As you begin to tune in to your horse, you might see that an episode of bad attitude is simply his way of expressing that he's sore in the neck, back or croup.
In my lifelong experience with horses, I have found that troublesome behavior often traces to a source that can be readily identified and remedied. As a result, I offer the following list of common contributors to resistance, poor performance and difficult behavior in horses. Consider them before you assume the worst about your horse...before you reach for a stronger training aid...even before you try any of my TTouches and exercises. You and your horse will be better for it.

1. Saddle fit
An ill-fitting saddle can be a source of pain or cause a horse anxiety because it feels restrictive or unstable. Some behaviors associated with poor saddle fit include irritability, going crooked, and overreacting or not responding to the aids. In addition, a horse may move with a restricted range of motion, hold his breath and exhibit a high level of tension. He may spook, buck, bolt or develop a sour attitude.
Saddle-fit problems can affect a horse's way of going in many ways. For instance, a saddle that pinches inhibits movement from the poll to the pelvis, creating discomfort and forcing him to shorten his stride. A saddle that is too narrow or set too far forward can jam his shoulders and withers, restricting movement. Pressure from the pommel crowding the withers can be exacerbated when a horse is high-headed, dropped in the back or traveling downhill. A saddle without sufficient gullet clearance can compress the withers, causing soreness.
A saddle that is too long may jab the loins. Bridging--which occurs when the front and back of a saddle rest on a horse but the midsection does not--is a common source of discomfort.
Riders, too, can be affected by poor saddle fit. For example, a saddle that is too big will not be stable, and the rider will experience the feeling of always trying to catch up with the horse.

2. Hooves and shoes
Refusal or inability to move freely forward can appear to be stubbornness, unwillingness or laziness. But the cause may trace to one of a wide variety of hoof conditions, such as abscesses, quarter cracks, corns, sore heels and tender soles. Other common problems include contracted heels, long-toe/low-heel syndrome, chronic laminitis, imbalanced trimming and/or shoeing, close or quicked nails, and leaving the shoes on too long. An experienced farrier can identify problems and help to keep a horse's hooves in good condition.

3. Body soreness
It is my conviction that body soreness is the most often missed or misread reason for a decline in attitude and behavior. A horse can be sore virtually anywhere on his body, but the common hot spots are the back, hips, girth area, shoulder/neck junction, poll, legs and feet. Stiff or tight muscles--particularly those of the rump, gaskins and forearms--can leave him hurting, too.
Body soreness may result from a single episode of work that overwhelms the system (acute) or from continuous effort without sufficient attention to rest and recovery (chronic). It can occur when a horse is worked in footing or other conditions to which he is unaccustomed, such as deep sand, rocky going, irregular terrain or hills. Other contributors include inadequate preparation for work, excessive jumping, long hours under saddle, longeing in small circles, overcollection and extended periods of sitting trot when the horse is insufficiently conditioned or protected by padding.
In a number of cases, body soreness can be detected through physical signs. Be alert for heat, swelling and tenderness--especially in the legs and ankles--as well as a dull hair coat and a loss of enthusiasm for work.

4. Teeth
Dental issues, especially in younger and older horses, can be responsible for a range of problems that may be mistaken for uncooperativeness on a horse's part. They include head tossing, rooting at the bit or an unwillingness to accept it, sticking the tongue out, hanging the mouth open, stargazing, fidgeting, nervousness and a lack of focus. A competent equine dentist will be able to identify and remedy the hooks, ridges and other unevennesses that result from normal wear and tear as well as problems such as abscesses, broken teeth and baby teeth that don't fall out as the adult teeth emerge.
 

5. Diet
A horse who is fed an overabundance of protein or supplements and then insufficiently exercised will be so full of energy that he will be difficult to control under saddle. It may be a challenge to keep him straight. He may buck and fling his head. In contrast, a horse who is underfed won't have enough energy to get the job done. He'll lack impulsion, willingness and spirit.
Good-quality forage is the foundation of the equine diet. If you have concerns about your horse's daily ration, consult an equine nutritionist and have your hay and feed analyzed. Nutrient deficiencies can be responsible for a variety of conditions. For instance, a lack of vitamin E and selenium can lead to short, stilted strides and even tying up. Allergies to grain can cause resistance, uncontrollable temperament and inconsistent performance. Studies show that grain puts horses at risk for colic and founder.
Beet pulp (high fiber) and rice bran (high fat) have proven to be safer alternatives to grain-based diets. I have seen a number of horses become unmanageable when fed sweet feed, and I have watched many behavior problems disappear when the feed program is adjusted.

6. Conformation
Any horse whose conformation is suitable for the discipline or style of riding that interests you is less likely to become resistant or develop undesirable behaviors because he is physically overfaced.
For instance, it's common for narrow-chested, long-legged horses to be flighty--a problem I attribute to a sense of insecurity caused by poor balance. Long-backed, wasp-waisted horses generally have limited weight-carrying capacity and a tendency to be strung out. Steep-shouldered, straight-pasterned horses aren't able to produce long, floating strides. A horse with extremely straight or bent (sickle) hocks may have difficulty going downhill. A ewe-necked horse will have a tendency to be unbalanced and flighty because of discomfort in the back.

7. Hormones
Some mares are more sensitive to the fluctuations of the estrous cycle, and their behavior may be affected for the five to seven days each month that they are in heat. Occasionally, their actions and reactions are a sign of something more serious. When a mare kicks or squeals to light pressure almost anywhere on her body, or if she is constantly difficult to control under saddle, call your veterinarian to check for an ovarian cyst, persistent corpus luteum or other endocrine anomaly. Ten minutes a day of TTouches during the rest of the month may be helpful in reducing the intensity of hormone imbalances and mood swings during the heat cycle.

8. Training and riding
A heavy or unyielding hand and a driving seat can contribute to tension and soreness throughout a horse's body, especially in the poll, shoulders, back, loins and pelvis. Any training technique used excessively can cause repetitive-motion stress. This risk is most apparent in sports that emphasize repeated drilling of patterns and lateral movements, such as dressage, reining, cutting and barrel racing. Be alert for explosive and resistant behavior, a sour attitude, uneven gait, tight neck, pinned ears and filling in the ankles. To avoid these problems, alternate a horse's training sessions with trail rides, ground driving or other types of cross-training.

9. Rider attitude
I feel very strongly that a rider's attitude is far more important than his or her raw skill. The most technically proficient rider in the world will limit a horse's potential if he or she does not recognize and honor the horse's individuality or is not flexible enough to work with him. A compassionate attitude that allows the horse the freedom to be comfortable and expressive is the foundation of a rewarding relationship.

10. Stress
Many common equine activities are stressful, including confinement, training, shipping and competition, and many mental, emotional and physical problems are the direct result of stress. To reduce its impact, always give your horse a chance to adapt gradually to new situations or training, and then carefully monitor his response.
In addition, use TTouch (read "How to Do the TTouch" at the end of this list). It has been proven to reduce the stress levels in horses in training and for trailering. It can also help to relax those who spend the majority of their time in stalls. In situations where a horse cannot be turned out with companions, TTouch can substitute for social contact.

11. Exercise & stabling
Horses need plenty of daily exercise to be healthy, sound and willing. Those who spend much of their day confined to a stall or small corral can become lazy and lethargic or turn difficult and explosive when they are first released. In such instances, it's unrealistic to think it's possible to jump on the horse and fully collect him or take off at a gallop down the trail without causing him to become stiff, sore and resistant.
Horses who spend the majority of each day confined benefit from daily activities and exercise. In addition, the Tellington Method offers an alternative to longeing or the round pen to work a horse prior to riding or training. Ten minutes of TTouches before riding can relax a horse as much as 30 minutes of longeing.

12. Environment
If horses had an equine "bill of rights," it would require safely constructed facilities and fencing, clean bedding, fresh and palatable food and water, shade in the summer, a windbreak in the winter and limited exposure to flies and other biting pests. Additional entitlements would be daily turnout and grazing as well as contact with other equines and people, and kind handling. All of these factors maximize a horse's health and well-being and minimize stress, which can adversely affect attitude and performance.
Adjusting to new surroundings can take time. A horse who has been moved to a new stable may miss the buddies he left behind as he's also attempting to cope with the stresses of shipping and becoming accustomed to different barnmates, smells, feed and handlers. Even the invisible microbes in the earth provide a new antigenic challenge for his immune system, which must quickly adapt.

13. Eyesight
I have seen horses who were tense, skittish and high-headed because their eyesight or depth perception was not 100 percent. One horse labeled unwilling, unresponsive and dumb turned out to see very little. There also was a warmblood who spun around whenever another horse approached him head-on. His eyes were set so far to the side that I believe he could not see forward enough when he was on a collected rein. Your veterinarian can check your horse's eyesight.
As you become fluent in equine conversation, your horse will no longer have to "shout" to get your attention. You'll recognize from a subtle shift in his behavior or attitude that something is wrong and take appropriate steps to uncover the cause. By overcoming behavioral and training challenges without force, you'll enhance your horse's trust, cooperation and willingness to learn. You'll build his confidence as well as your own and improve your enjoyment of him.
How to Do the TTouch
The basic TTouch--there are dozens--is a circular movement of the fingers and hands all over the body. Its purpose is to activate cellular function to speed healing or change undesirable behavior.
To do the TTouch, imagine the face of a clock--about a half-inch to one inch in diameter--on your horse's body. Place your lightly curved fingers at six o'clock and push the skin around the face one and a quarter times. Place your thumb two to three inches from your forefinger and feel a connection between the two. When possible, support the body gently with your free hand, placing it opposite the hand making the circle. Maintain a steady rhythm and constant pressure, whether light or firm. Pay attention to the roundness of the circles.
After each TTouch, randomly move to another spot or run parallel lines on the body by making a circle with a little slide and then another. Both approaches induce relaxation. Placing your free hand in a supporting position and making a connection between your hands will keep your horse in balance and enhance the effect.
Clockwise circles usually are most effective for strengthening and rehabilitating the body as well as improving performance. However, there are times when counterclockwise circles are appropriate for releasing tension.

This article originally appeared in the October 2006 issue of EQUUS magazine. Read the Linda Tellington-Jones' story in the January 2007 issue of EQUUS, and check out her new book The Ultimate Horse Behavior and Training Book at HorseBooksEtc.com.

The Six Golden Principles of Horse Training

The co-founders of "Cavalia" share their insights on equine behavior and training in this excerpt from their new book, Gallop to Freedom.
Husband and wife team Frederic Pignon and Magall Delgado first became known to the world through their equestrian-themed show, "Cavalia," which began touring in North America in 2004.  Billed as an "homage to the poignant history and fascinating bond between human beings and horses," Cavalis features 30 highly trained horses performing in a spectacular multimedia program of dance, live music and visual arts.  Now Pignon and Delgado are sharing their training and handling secrets in their new book, Gallop to Freedom.  In this chapter; (Adapted from the book), the husband and wife pair describe the philosophy behind the relationship with their horses.

The Six Golden Principles of Horse Training



PRINCIPLE ONE
Foster a more equal relationship, based on trust and respect, in which we learn from each other.
I believe we can forge a new kind of relationship with a horse based on a greater degree of equality than most people have thought possible. Horses themselves form very close relationships that can last a lifetime. I want the same: I want to reach the stage where they don't drive me from their space and I don't drive them from mine. I have to convince them that the space belongs to both of us. In our liberty acts, I have to put these beliefs to the test in front of audiences. When I come into the ring with loose horses, I have an idea of what we may be doing together but I never know exactly how the evening will turn out. Occasionally, I am amazed and delighted along with the audience.

During these liberty acts I initially allow the horses to position themselves for their own comfort. For instance, in the act I do with three Lusitanos, I let them choose who wants to be in the middle. But once established, they have to keep that order. When I do the same act with the much younger Friesians, Phoebus and Paulus, together with Guizo, a pure Spanish horse, I persuade Guizo to be between the other two since this avoids potential trouble when the Friesians become overexcited or decide that it would be fun to have a brotherly nip.
Frédéric Pignon and Magali Delgado with Templado and Dao saying goodbye.

Three Stallions Invent a Number
On another occasion I was doing a number with the three stallions Aetes, Fasto and Templado in Essen, Germany. At the end of the act the horses galloped across the ring toward me but, as they were stopping and preparing for a cabrade, Aetes turned around and galloped back to the other side of the ring (about 65 feet away) where there was a box. There he turned again, put one front leg on the box and performed a perfect jambette. At the same time the other two stallions reared up into a wonderful cabrade. When Aetes saw this he galloped over to join the other two. Then they came toward me, all three content. The jambette had made up for the disobedience, and Aetes knew it. This number was a total surprise to me--like a gift of joy.

PRINCIPLE TWO
Never adopt "standard" or inflexible methods of training but recognize that each horse develops as an individual and reacts differently to the same stimulus.
It is commonplace to say that every person is different from everyone else. The same is true for horses, and the difference between each is as great as that between humans. Many characteristics are decided by hereditary makeup, the rest depending on upbringing and relationships with other horses and with humans.
When I explain to people that I am not in the business of putting forward yet another training method, they quite naturally want to know what method I do favor. As usual, there is no simple answer: Lots of reasonable methods have been developed over the years, but you have to apply all of them with sensitivity and without losing sight of the principles I am trying to instill--that is, of course, if you are won over to our approach.
In dealing with other people we learn to be aware of their wishes and their reactions. Likewise, we can learn to read horses, but their language is different so we have to learn it first. When people deal with horses, all too often they ignore this obvious truth and throw common sense out the window. They follow some method they have been taught or heard about and apply it without any attention to the horse's reaction. They make no effort to gauge whether the horse likes what they are trying to do or not. Put yourself in the horse's position. Would you care to be treated like this?

PRINCIPLE THREE
Reduce stress and become a safe, trusted "haven" for the horse.
A feeling of security is much more fundamental than the need for food and so constant that it is a basic element in the training of a horse. I consider removing anxiety, reassuring the horse and producing a "comfort zone" as the steps to be taken before any other. As soon as a horse feels secure you can begin the process of enabling him (I purposely don't use the term "making") to cooperate and work for you. If the horse wants to work and finds pleasure in working, his reward is security. Naturally, there is nothing wrong with occasionally using food as an incentive, but this should never become automatic.
I often reward my horse by allowing him to do a favorite action. As you know, Aetes likes nibbling my chin, so at the end of a show I let him do this, and of course the audience loves it. Quite often I will already have left the stage when a horse returns to me and wants to do his favorite thing. If I can afford the time, I let him, and if I don't have time--because I have to go on stage again right away, for instance--then I will come back and make it up to him. I have to keep each horse's peculiarities in mind during a show. By remembering to allow Fasto a fair amount of galloping, I reduce his stress. If he is stressed at the end of the act when the horses lie down for the applause, he's tense and shows me his unease. If he has had a good gallop, he is relaxed and sits perfectly still through any amount of clapping.

When Lancelot becomes anxious in the middle of a performance, he is like someone in front of a void: He freezes and his muscles tense up. As soon as I see this, I let him put his head in my elbow, which is his way of telling me that he wants me to calm and relax him.
Flight Is His Right, But My Protection is Better
The great advantage of liberty training is that there is by definition less stress from the outset. It is often months--with Templado, it was years--before I put a saddle on a young horse. This makes it much easier to encourage, if not to provoke, the horse into showing initiative. I want him to understand that he has various choices even if I help him make his decision. This matter of choice even extends to galloping away from me. Since I am working with him in a closed arena his freedom is, in the end, limited by the fence and he will eventually stop. I may keep his attention by waving my whip or calling softly. I have to convince him that he will not find the peace he wants unless he pleases me. Gradually he works his way back to me and we resume where we left off, calmly and without recrimination or punishment. A horse soon learns that the alternative to flight is to put himself under my protection. But flight is always his right! It is up to him to decide how to deal with his fear.
The young stallions Paulus, Guizo and Phoebus come to Frédéric at the end of a show for confirmation of a job well done.

PRINCIPLE FOUR
Always be patient and never push too fast or too insistently--and don't allow the horse to get bored.
Magali says: "In our world everyone is obsessed with deadlines and speed. In the horse's world you have to forget these. If you tug on a carrot, hoping to speed its growth, you will loosen the roots and achieve the opposite effect. If there are difficulties I try to divide them up into manageable parts. I wait until the horse feels ready to take the next step. I am convinced that I save time by this approach.
"When it comes to work I try never to overdo it. Deciding on the correct length of a working session is vitally important. What is more, a horse must feel that if he does really well he will be rewarded with a shorter session. If he is forced to go on too long it not only tires him, it also 'demotivates' him--a great mistake.
"I try to break up lessons into a logical progression the horse can understand and take pleasure in. When I make a mistake and press him too hard, I can just go back a step without having to go all the way to the beginning."
Trial and Error
The classical teaching methods of horse training are on the whole against experimentation; I believe that trial and error is the only way to proceed because, inevitably, you will make mistakes. As Albert Einstein said, "Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new." My horse shies: Is that wheelbarrow the reason? I remove it; he shies again. Is it because he doesn't like being away from his friends? I bring them into the lesson and try again--and so on. I spend my life trying to get to the bottom of enigmas.

In the sort of acts in which my horses take part, they are not made to rear and hold the position for a long time as they are often asked to do in circuses. I know from what they "tell" me that a long rear is uncomfortable and they don't like it. I once allowed someone to tap my horse on his hindquarters to keep him up. Never again: The next day the horse made it crystal clear that he was upset and didn't want to play with me. The end never justifies the means and in this case, the end was not even the correct one. The horse was able to tell me and I made it up to him.
Some people say that, in a competition, it's all right to push the horse further than he would normally go. My answer is that if you have a good relationship you can ask a lot on one day, but the next day you must reward your horse with rest or with games he likes. I usually play a few games before going into the arena and, of course, I choose the ones that my horse particularly likes.

PRINCIPLE FIVE
Never use force or become angry.
I cannot stress enough that any method based on achieving your will over a horse by punishment or brute force is not to be considered. If a horse does not obey you, there is almost certainly a reason for it: Either he doesn't understand the command, he is uncomfortable, or he is fearful of what might happen if he obeys. Since my aim is to cultivate a relationship in which my horse will want to obey me, I know that a refusal has a reason. It is my job to find that reason and to put it right.


I might add that I was particularly fortunate with Templado. Once he had accepted me as his trusted friend he never gave me the slightest reason to be angry but, before he was "tamed," there were plenty of occasions that could have elicited anger had I not been aware that it would serve no purpose.
It seems impossible to hide anger from a horse. I know this because when I was less experienced, I occasionally allowed myself to feel upset after a number had gone badly wrong. Even if one does not show displeasure, it seems that horses can sense it, but they cannot make the connection to a deed, and it only makes things worse. They do not know how to cope with our annoyance and conceive it as a form of punishment.
Magali asks Mandarin to perform a canter pirouette.

If something is not working out and you have already shown your disapproval without result, it is better to end that particular lesson and come back to it later. If you ever have to use a hard defensive action, say to protect yourself, follow it immediately with an affectionate action. If you correct a horse, do it immediately and then stop. As with a dog, the association of offense and punishment is lost after a very short time. Punishment that is not associated with the offense will only leave long-term resentment and a diminution of trust.

PRINCIPLE SIX
Establish a more "natural" form of communication--that is, further new methods.
Some people say they can speak to horses or hear what they are saying. I myself remember many years ago doubting a woman who claimed she could understand what her horse was telling her. Now I feel quite differently. As my understanding has grown I know that I can often pick up exactly what the horse is trying to get across to me. I can also transmit my own wishes and ideas. I know this because of the horse's reactions.
Our Body Language
Although we have to learn the art of close observation of horses I believe that they are very sensitive to our body language and behavior. Every movement we make, even the tiniest, is noticed by a horse, and for this reason we must learn to be precise in all our movements and make sure that our thoughts are working in tandem with them. If we make a movement or indicate an intention but our thoughts are elsewhere, the horse can very easily be confused: He is getting two messages and he doesn't know how to cope with this sort of complexity. It may not have such a strong effect on him as any anger we might express, but it is clearly a negative emotion that will harm our relationship with him. Horses that have spent time in the wild are even more sensitive to our every gesture than horses that have been "dulled" by domestic misuse.

What's the Horse Telling Us?
People often ask me: What does it mean when you talk about a horse "telling" you?
There is no clear way of explaining this. You have to be able to "read" your horse and decode his reactions quickly enough to adjust your own actions. I notice that a lot of people do not even understand if a horse is saying "Yes" or "No." Part of your aim must be to arrive at the point where the horse can tell you things, and you can tell him things in reply. Once he has this confidence he will not find it difficult to tell you that he has back pain or that he's tired.
I keep all my senses alert when I am trying to understand what the horse is saying. When I get a feeling I go with it. I find that increasingly I can follow my instincts or my instinctive interpretation of images and thoughts. In order to train this ability I sometimes stay close to a horse and observe him while emptying my mind of all other thoughts. I let myself be guided by my instincts. Usually they turn out to be correct.
People throughout history were able to ask the most detailed questions of horses and understand their replies, but this is a very special gift that few people have. My own ability and Magali's is one we have developed over time by the methods outlined in this book. I am convinced that it is a skill available to anyone prepared to devote enough time and patience to its pursuit.



This excerpt appeared in the November 2009 issue of EQUUS magazine. Adapted by permission from Gallop to Freedom: Training Horses with the Founding Stars of Cavalia, published in October 2009 by Trafalgar Square Books. Available from HorseBooksEtc.com; 800-952-5813.